I can only say that life, out of the water, for me does not come easy. I think I live very much in the present, the place most people want to be. When the ocean is going off and I'm not in it I become uncomfortable in my skin...I have to feel it. I'm connected to the sensation of surfing--the visual experience of being in the wave. I begin to feel the wave from the shore...I become in tune. If you watch me you can see my body begin to prepare. When I was young I used to get grounded when I got into trouble, we lived near the ocean so I was always aware of the surf. My parents learned that I had to be in the water...punishing me by keeping me out of the water was not a punishment...but a sentence. I lot of people don't get me...I'm living, keeping it simple and everyone is trying to figure me out. I do not live in my ego...I'm pure, raw. I'm not going to tell my story with words. Listen and watch and you may also see my pure intelligence. I definitely see life different from most. I am as alive as anyone can be in the thrill of the ocean and I struggle for air out of it.